A GUIDE TO EDINBURGH'S OLD TOWN

Edinburgh’s Old Town is usually the first stop on every first-time visitor’s itinerary. Why?

This is the area of Edinburgh where spooky stories dominate the cobbled streets and dark underground life of Scotland’s capital.

It is also where you will find The Royal Mile, which surprisingly isn’t quite a mile long!

Many of Edinburgh’s top attractions lie on The Royal Mile or just off it, making it a sensible place to stay if you are short on time and want to pack lots in.

Since there are so many Old Town pubs and exciting dining opportunities, you will find locals among the crowds of tartan-loving tourists!

Most of the walking tours and bus trips leave from The Royal Mile, so if you plan to learn more about Edinburgh’s history, visit the Harry Potter locations or get out to visit Scotland’s coasts, Highlands and islands, the Old Town is a good location to base yourself.

Here’s our guide to hotels, hostels, Airbnbs and B&Bs in the Old Town.

Updated September 2026

Edinburgh Castle Front Entrance Royal Mile Edinburgh Activities
AttractionAreaPricePostcode
Edinburgh CastleCastlehillFrom £23.50EH1 2NG
St Giles’ CathedralHigh StreetFree (donation £10)EH1 1RE
The Real Mary King’s CloseHigh StreetFrom £25EH1 1PG
National Museum of ScotlandChambers StreetFreeEH1 1JF
Camera ObscuraCastlehill£24.95EH1 2NE
Palace of HolyroodhouseCanongateFrom £22EH8 8DX
Scottish ParliamentCanongateFreeEH99 1SP
Greyfriars KirkyardGrassmarket areaFreeEH1 2QQ

GETTING TO THE OLD TOWN

From Waverley Train Station, there are four ways to get to High Street on The Royal Mile by foot.

Make your way to the Market Street exit of the station, cross the road and walk up the infamous Fleshmarket Close stairs to Cockburn (Co-burn) Street.

This close is also the name of a famous Ian Rankin crime novel! There are a couple of pubs on Fleshmarket Close if you need a breather and some Dutch courage.

Another option is to avoid the steps and head along Market Street to the corner where you can walk up Cockburn Street, passing all the cute cafes and shops to High Street on The Royal Mile.

The third option is to cross the road at Market Street and head left past Brewhemia to The Scotsman Steps. This is a local secret! 104 steps will take you up to North Bridge, turn right for the High Street.

Finally, bypass The Scotsman Steps and keep walking up the curve of Jeffery Street and you will find the High Street. Phew! I’m knackered thinking about it.

If you have luggage, you may want to grab a taxi outside of the train station on Market Street.

The Edinburgh Tram doesn’t reach the Old Town and the public buses from Princes Street still require walking. 

If you plan to do a lot of tourist attractions, save your feet and hide from the rainy weather using the Edinburgh Hop On/Off Bus.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

On The Royal Mile, you have Edinburgh Castle at the top on Castlehill.

The street becomes Lawnmarket before High Street but they all run into one so you would never know the difference.

Three-quarters of the way down The Royal Mile, the street becomes the Canongate and at the bottom, you find the Scottish Parliament at Holyrood Park.

Let’s start at the top!

Old Town Edinburgh Map

From the Lawnmarket with Edinburgh Castle behind you, head to George IV Bridge where you will see the popular Harry Potter location, The Elephant Cafe, and Greyfriars Bobby, our Everything Edinburgh logo.

From here you can visit the National Museum of Scotland and check out the views of the city from the roof for free! 

Next, wind down Candlemaker Row to the Grassmarket.

Take the road up West Bow into Victoria Street to see the pastel buildings featured in lots of Edinburgh pictures.

Turn left to meet the High Street again and then right to see all the Edinburgh tourist spots on The Mile including:

  • David Hume’s Toe
  • St Giles Cathedral
  • Heart of Midlothian
  • Mary King’s Close
  • Mercat Cross
  • Parliament Square
  • Museum of Childhood
  • John Knox House
  • Scottish Storytelling Centre
  • The World’s End pub
  • Canongate Tolbooth clock
  • The ivy heart at Chessels Court
  • Dunbar Close Gardens
  • Museum of Edinburgh
  • The People’s Storytelling Museum
  • Canongate Kirk
  • Scottish Parliament
  • Holyrood Palace and Abbey
  • Queen Mary’s Bath House
  • Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags
  • St Anthony’s Chapel ruins on Arthur’s Seat

From the list of things to do in Edinburgh’s Old Town, you can see why you need at least a full day to get a feel for the old city and its attractions!

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE OLD TOWN

Edinburgh’s Old Town is one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban areas in Europe. The settlement grew around Edinburgh Castle, built on the volcanic plug of Castle Rock as early as the 10th century. King David I established the royal burgh here in the 1100s, and the Royal Mile developed as the main artery connecting the castle to Holyrood Abbey.

By the 16th century, the Old Town was one of the most densely populated areas in Europe. Buildings reached up to 14 storeys high, connected by a network of narrow closes and wynds. The city was bounded by the Flodden Wall and the boggy Nor Loch (where Princes Street Gardens now sit), which was used for witch dunking trials.

The 18th century brought the Scottish Enlightenment, with figures like David Hume and Adam Smith walking these streets. The Nor Loch was drained in the 1820s to make way for the gardens. In 1995, the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised for their outstanding medieval and Georgian architecture.

OLD TOWN NEIGHBOURHOODS

The Old Town is not one uniform area – it is a collection of distinct neighbourhoods, each with its own character:

Castlehill

The top of the Royal Mile, running from Edinburgh Castle down to the esplanade. Home to Camera Obscura and the Scotch Whisky Experience, this is where most visitors begin their Old Town walk.

Lawnmarket

Originally the site of the linen market, this stretch between Castlehill and the High Street is now known for office buildings and the annual Christmas Market. It was once the busiest trading section of the Royal Mile.

High Street

The heart of the Old Town and the widest section of the Royal Mile. St Giles’ Cathedral dominates the centre, with the Heart of Midlothian mosaic set into the cobblestones outside. This is where the Edinburgh Military Tattoo takes place each August.

Canongate

The lower section of the Royal Mile, running from the High Street down to the Scottish Parliament. Named after the Canons of Holyrood Abbey, this area includes the Scottish Storytelling Centre, Canongate Kirk, and the modern landmark of the Scottish Parliament building.

Grassmarket

A former market square tucked below Castle Rock. Once the site of public executions (the Gibbet Pool is still marked), it is now one of Edinburgh’s liveliest pub and restaurant areas, with views up to the castle walls.

Cowgate

Running parallel to and below the Royal Mile, the Cowgate was historically the cattle route into the city. Today it is known as Edinburgh’s clubland, with venues like The Bridge and Whistlebinkes, plus the impressive Museum of Ayrshire.

TOP OLD TOWN ATTRACTIONS

Here are the key attractions in Edinburgh’s Old Town with practical details to help you plan:

Edinburgh Castle

Perched on Castle Rock at the top of the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle is Scotland’s most visited paid attraction. Inside you will find the Crown Jewels (Honours of Scotland), the Stone of Destiny, St Margaret’s Chapel (the oldest building in Edinburgh, dating to the 1100s), and the One O’Clock Gun. Allow at least 2 hours. Address: Castlehill, EH1 2NG. Prices: Adult from £23.50 online, Child (7–15) from £14. Hours: Daily 9:30am–6pm (Apr–Sep), 9:30am–5pm (Oct–Mar).

St Giles’ Cathedral

The High Kirk of Edinburgh has stood on the Royal Mile for over 900 years. The crown spire is one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. Inside, the Thistle Chapel (added 1911) is a masterpiece of Gothic Revival carving with 12 life-size knight statues. Entry is free with a suggested donation of £10. Address: High Street, EH1 1RE. Hours: Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 1pm–5pm.

The Real Mary King’s Close

Descend beneath the Royal Mile into a preserved 17th-century underground street. The award-winning guided tour explores the real stories of former residents, from plague victims to merchants. The close was sealed off when the Royal Mile was widened in the 1700s. Address: 2 Warriston’s Close, EH1 1PG. Prices: Adult from £25 (Essential) / £28.50 (Standard). Duration: 1 hour.

National Museum of Scotland

One of Scotland’s most popular attractions and completely free. The museum covers everything from Dolly the Sheep to Scottish history, with a stunning Victorian Grand Gallery. Don’t miss the roof terrace on Level 7 – a hidden gem with panoramic views of the castle, Arthur’s Seat and the Old Town skyline. Address: Chambers Street, EH1 1JF. Hours: Daily 10am–5pm. Entry: Free.

Camera Obscura & World of Illusions

Six floors of interactive illusions, holograms and mirror mazes, topped by the original Victorian Camera Obscura – a live, moving image of the city projected onto a table in a darkened room. The rooftop terrace offers one of the best free viewpoints in Edinburgh (included with ticket). Address: 549 Castlehill, EH1 2NE. Prices: Adult £24.95, Child (5–15) £17.95, Under 5s free.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

The King’s official residence in Scotland, at the foot of the Royal Mile. Visitors can explore the State Apartments, the historic chambers of Mary, Queen of Scots, and the ruins of Holyrood Abbey. A multimedia guide is included. Address: Canongate, EH8 8DX. Prices: Adult £22 advance / £26 on the day. Hours: Apr–Oct 9:30am–6pm, Nov–Mar 9:30am–4:30pm.

Scottish Parliament

Enrique Miralles’ award-winning building (opened 2004) is one of the most distinctive modern landmarks in Edinburgh. Free 45-minute guided tours run Monday, Friday and Saturday (booking recommended). You can also visit the public gallery to watch debates in the Debating Chamber. Address: The Royal Mile, EH99 1SP. Entry: Free.

Greyfriars Kirkyard

One of the most famous graveyards in the world, dating to 1561. Home to the Greyfriars Bobby statue (the loyal Skye terrier who guarded his owner’s grave), the Covenanters’ Prison (locked, guided tours only), and gravestones that inspired characters in the Harry Potter series. Address: Greyfriars Place, EH1 2QQ. Entry: Free. Hours: Open 24 hours, 365 days.

[/col] [/row]

HOW LONG SHOULD YOU SPEND IN THE OLD TOWN?

Walking the length of the Royal Mile from the castle to Holyrood takes about 30 minutes without stopping. But you will want to stop – a lot. Allow at least half a day for the main sights along the Royal Mile. A full day lets you pop into Edinburgh Castle, visit one or two museums, and explore the side streets. If you want to do justice to the neighbourhoods, the Grassmarket, Cowgate and side closes, plan 2–3 days. The Old Town rewards slow wandering.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Is Edinburgh Old Town free to explore?

Yes – walking the streets, closes and neighbourhoods of the Old Town is completely free. Several top attractions are also free, including the National Museum of Scotland, St Giles’ Cathedral (suggested donation £10), the Scottish Parliament and Greyfriars Kirkyard.

How long is the Royal Mile?

Despite the name, the Royal Mile is not exactly one mile long. It measures roughly 1 Scots mile, which is about 1.13 standard miles (1.81 km). It runs from Edinburgh Castle at the top to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom.

What is the difference between Old Town and New Town?

The Old Town is the medieval heart of Edinburgh, with narrow closes, tall tenements and the Royal Mile. The New Town was built from the 1760s onwards on the other side of the Nor Loch (now Princes Street Gardens) and features wide Georgian streets, gardens and squares. Both are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Is Edinburgh Old Town walkable?

Absolutely. The Old Town is compact and best explored on foot. The Royal Mile is a gentle downhill walk from the castle to Holyrood. Be prepared for hills if you venture into the Grassmarket or Cowgate, and wear comfortable shoes for the cobblestones.

How do I get from Waverley Station to the Old Town?

Waverley Station sits right at the edge of the Old Town, between Princes Street and the Royal Mile. The easiest route is to take the Market Street exit, walk up the stairs through Fleshmarket Close to Cockburn Street, and you are on the Royal Mile in about 5 minutes. Alternatively, use the Waverley Steps to reach North Bridge and walk along to the High Street.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE OLD TOWN

Select the titles or images below to find out about our favourite restaurants, pubs, things to do in the Old Town and places to stay.

OLD TOWN RESTAURANTS

Maxies Bistro Victoria Street Old Town Restaurant

OLD TOWN PUBS

THINGS TO DO IN THE OLD TOWN

St Giles Cathedral Royal Mile Edinburgh

OLD TOWN GHOST TOURS

Ghost Bus Tour Old Town

WHERE TO STAY

Edinburgh Castle from Grassmarket

OLD TOWN AIRBNBS

Chessels Court Ivy Heart Royal Mile Edinburgh Old Town Airbnbs
Things to do in Old Town Edinburgh, things to do in Edinburgh at night, what to do in Edinburgh, Edinburgh, Scotland, Edinburgh itinerary, winter Edinburgh, Edinburgh festivals, Edinburgh travel, Arthurs Seat, Harry Potter, Outlander, unique Edinburgh, cheap Edinburgh, budget Edinburgh