Ullapool is the biggest and liveliest town on the western half of the North Coast 500, and most people treat it as the natural overnight stop before the emptier far north-west. It sits on a sheltered sea loch, Loch Broom, with a whitewashed harbour front, a working fishing fleet, and the CalMac ferry to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis.
After a day of single-track roads it feels almost metropolitan: there are proper restaurants, a good bookshop, and harbour pubs where you will often catch live folk music. It is also the best base for one of the most rewarding short climbs on the route, the miniature mountain of Stac Pollaidh.
Climbing Stac Pollaidh
Stac Pollaidh is a small, rocky peak a short drive north of Ullapool, and it punches far above its modest height. The circular path takes most walkers two to three hours and rewards you with a huge view over a landscape of scattered lochans and other isolated peaks. The final rocky summit ridge is a scramble that many people skip, and there is no shame in stopping at the col below it.
Wear proper footwear, take the circular route to spare the eroded direct path, and start early in summer, as the small car park fills quickly.
The harbour and the ferry
Ullapool’s harbour is the heart of the town. It is where the Stornoway ferry comes and goes, where fishing boats land their catch, and where you will find most of the town’s eating and drinking within a short stroll. If your trip includes the Outer Hebrides, this is where you would sail from.
- Seafood straight off the boats at the harbour restaurants
- Live folk music in the harbour pubs most evenings
- The Ceilidh Place, a landmark hotel, bar and bookshop
- An easy walk along the shore for views back over the loch
Where it sits on the route
Ullapool is roughly the midpoint of the classic clockwise NC500, and a sensible place to break the trip. North of here the towns thin out and the scenery of Assynt and the far north-west takes over, so stocking up on fuel, food and cash before you leave is wise.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Ullapool worth staying overnight on the NC500?
Yes. It is the largest town on the west coast, with the best choice of restaurants, pubs and accommodation before the far north-west, which makes it the natural place to break a clockwise trip.
How long does it take to climb Stac Pollaidh?
Most walkers complete the circular route in two to three hours. The summit ridge itself is an exposed scramble that many people leave out, stopping at the col for the view instead.
